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Day 2 - Insomnia
June 10, 2007 by Lei.
The first night really reminds me of the movie “Insomnia”. At 10pm, it’s already 2 am EST for me, so I called off the night early. But it’s still bright day light outside, feel like the middle of the day. No wonder the most prominent thing I see when I walked into my room is the eye mask. I woke up at 3am, it’s already bright day light outside, and hard to say if night ever fell here last night. I still felt tired (from what? I don’t even understand why I felt tired), so continued to sleep until it’s time for my breakfast around 8.
We got a full house at breakfast table. The other 10 or so guests here either come for a wedding, or just a short vacation. Our host Sandy and Jerry are both retired university professors. They spend the summer here, and winter in Mexico. Seem quite a lot of retired people come live here just for the summer then spend winter in south. I chatted with them about the living cost in Alaska. Last night at dinner, I noticed that the food here is not cheap at all, even locally produced food like crab and salmon is at as expensive as any other city. They told me that living cost outside anchorage is even higher. Food, gas, nothing comes cheap here. As usual, I eat more than two person’s serving at breakfast that kept our host busy. The reindeer sausage is delicious.
10 o’clock is our team meeting time. Our team consists of three guides and ten clients. Lead guide, Dave Staeheli has been guiding on Denali for several decades; Assistant guide, Pablo from Ecuador and Zach from Colorado both are new to Denali, but had been on one previous (unlucky) expedition this season. Of the 10 clients, there are three British that is trying to make a world record by climbing all 7 summits within 150 days, and this is the last one for them. They just came off Everest, then went to Elbrus, now the last stop. Two of them are actually professional mountain guides themselves. This makes our team no short of professional hands.
Our plan is to fly off to glacier tomorrow (Monday) afternoon around 3pm if condition allows. Then set up base camp and practice some technical skills. We will then do a single carry the next day to camp 1, and plan to arrive at 11,000ft camp 2 within four days (with day 1 being the day we start moving from Base camp to camp 1). We are also plan to have one guide staying team members in each tent at high camp, so everyone can have access to cooking easily when weather is bad outside. Weather has been so bad in May, Dave is optimistic about some break in June. Mountain Trip also buried a big cache (that take up 8 long, 5 feet wide, 4 feet deep in the snow) of extra food at high camp. So we only need to carry up 14 days worth supply. By normal weight calculation, at least 2 pounds of food and a quarter litter of fuel per person per day. One week’s cache would mean 20-30 pounds per person! How nice is that!
We spend the rest of day doing last minute gear shopping and packing. I got some nice collapsible 96oz Nelgene container to be my dedicated pee bottle, no more worry about stuck with a full and frozen pee bottle in a stormy night.
Now, I’m off for the last civilized dinner. Hopefully, I will be able to report from glacier tomorrow. If I’m lucky to get connection there, it will be just some succinct message.
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First impression of Anchorage
June 9, 2007 by Lei.
After a hungry flight (airline now cutting cost, no food on the flight), I landed in Anchorage on time. It’s a sunny day with some light clouds and no wind. The first impression of Anchorage is: where are all the people? It’s Saturday, but I don’t see people anywhere.
Streets here are very wide, even just a “lane” in residential community could be four lanes wide. Commercial properties do not have those protruding architectural signatures that you could recognize them from far away. When I was looking for the supermarket, I walked by the blue brick block building without noticing it until I turned around to read the printed name on the brick wall. Sometimes I confuse myself whether I’m in America. By the cleanness and quality of city construction, it’s an American city. But by life style, I feel like in a foreign country. There’re no bar scenes (though I do find a crowded bar/restaurant when I headed into heart of downtown for dinner) or party crowds walking on the street, there’re no convenient stores or coffee shops at street corners, there are very few cars on the wide street. I walked around my B&B that is just outside the downtown for 20 blocks, didn’t even find a place to buy water at 9pm. Except for a group of parents and kids at a public park, I occasionally see a few kids playing in a backyard here and a car pulled into a house there.
Weather in Alaska is unpredictable. When I talked to people in the shop, I realized how lucky I am. It was still miserable just yesterday; high wind, bitter bold temperature, rain and cloud had dominated the area for two weeks. I know that people up high on Denali had been suffering during the past two weeks, but didn’t realize that people in city was also living in the “hell” at the same time. Seems there’s no pattern for Alaska weather, sometimes May could be the best month, sometimes the whole season could all be cold and rainy. I just hope please give me a few good days to let me summit!
Today I met my teammates Jeff and Stefan. We had dinner together. Jeff came last year with Mountain Trip, but injured his knee during a small fall into crevasse, and had to turn around from camp 1. So here he comes again, and plan to quit high mountain climbing after finishing Denali.
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Denali!
June 2, 2007 by Lei.
My turn to climb Denali is coming up fast! Denali (6194m, 20320 ft), also called Mt McKinley, is the highest peak in North America. I’m on Mountain Trip’s June 10th 2007 expedition. I will try to send updated information as much as I can, but please stay patient.
I have been following this year’s earlier expeditions closely, which helps me mentally prepare myself. The season on Denali started at the beginning of May. For the first month, there seems to have been only two brief summit windows. Most of the time, the mountain was in heavy snow storm and high wind. Two of the early expeditions were held down at high camp by storm for a week and had to descend after their food and fuel supply came to an end. I hope June will bring better climbing conditions on the higher mountain though there are more crevasse opening at lower slopes. I heard global warming also helps open up crevasse early:)
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